Tuesday 16th & Wednesday 17th We leave Queenstown with an inquisitive wonder of just what does lie ahead for us in the southwest of South Island known as “Fiordland”.
We know we’ll encounter the east bank road of Lake Wakatipu; then onwards to the Township of Te Anau; and then the following day, Wed-17-Jan, forward north, then westward in the direction of the Tasman coastline towards the legendary ‘Magic’ Milford Sound of which we have heard about so much during the recent past.
The road(s) tomorrow are described as: “The most southerly road crossing of the Southern Alps is easily the most spectacular, and provides one of the best motorcycle rides in New Zealand; possibly in the world”.
That’s a BIG testimony to live up to, and it should be easy to understand why we’re so excited about our imminent travelling prospects.
Firstly we meet Lake Wakatipu: I should have taken at least a couple of pictures of the scenery along the southbound road out of Queenstown that runs alongside Lake Wakatipu. The cloudless sky was a deep blue, reflected on the Lake in a more turquoise colour – but my mind was on the petrol gauge – less than half a tank remaining! It was unwise to leave Queenstown with so little fuel, especially without knowing where or when we would be able to fill-up again in this sparsely populated area of Southland.
After around 40 km (25 miles) I pull over to the verge and consult Ellen about our predicament; should we return to Queenstown, or perhaps the slightly nearer and smaller township of Frankton for petrol? – lead-free 91, 95 or 98 octane? It really didn’t matter, any grade would do right now! So we consult the road atlas. There appears to be one or two settlements ahead that might have fuel pumps. Ellen’s vote is that we take a chance rather than turn around – and therefore we press onwards.
Surprisingly soon we reach the small township – just a village really – of Kingston, which is located on the southern most point of Lake Wakatipu. We take advantage of the roadside service station's 95 octane pump - and its adjacent café. Well after all, it’s practically lunchtime … and we spot the Lamb Shanks offering on the menu!
With everything fully refuelled we’re soon back on the trail towards Te Anau Township.If Peter and Fi are still following this journal – then please note: this picture is especially just for you .. ;o)
185 km (115 miles) and three hours after leaving Queenstown we arrive in Te Anau – the nearest significant town before reaching Milford Sound to the northwest, an outing which we shall undertake tomorrow morning, as it’s too late to go for the 250 km (155 miles) round trip this late in the afternoon (4:00pm).BTW, it’s good to see that Kiwis spell “Fiord” sensibly. That is, without the name second lettered with a ‘j’ as they – and likewise we Brits – do in Norway (of Pining Blue Parrot fame :o)
After checking-in to a perfectly reasonable motel on the outskirts of Te Anau, we leg it into the centre of town and literally grab a steak. You see, in this particular restaurant one selects ones own raw steak of choice; then it’s handed to the chef who in turn cooks it to order and liking on the restaurant’s open griddle. A devilishly smart idea, as the customer can hardly go back and complain that the steak in question is tough. The chef would no doubt argue along the lines of, “Well you chose it .. so ‘tough!” Customer: “Yes, exactly, it’s tough”
Chef: “tough luck then .. innit”
And so the customer complains again … and chef counterclaims again – and so it must continue.
Let’s face it, there’s probably nothing worse than getting stuck in a ‘tough steak’ loop that could last for days. Best just not to complain under such circumstances. As I say, it’s a fiendishly cleaver idea getting the punters to select their own raw meat!
The following morning, Wed-17-Jan, we’re back on the road – fully re-fuelled again – and heading towards Milford Sound. It’s a magnificent morning as we head out northwards towards the distant mountains along the east shore of Lake Te Anau.
We’re in no particular hurry, so we break-up the 125 km (78 mile) one-way journey with a couple of comfort stops
Along the way I notice that we cross the 45th parallel; we’re now precisely at the halfway point between the South Pole and the Equator. Yet another timely reminder of just exactly where we are in the world.
Soon we get into the mountains as we start to approach Milford Sound
Then it all seems to be upon us, all at once, as we stare upwards at the snow-capped peaks back-dropped by an intense blue cloudless summer sky.
Before long we’re at the southern mouth of the one-way Homer Tunnel and waiting for the lights to turn green. The 1.2 km (¾ of a mile) narrow, dark rock-hewn downhill tunnel passage is a major feature of this ride, and the one element that I have been holding serious reservations about, as I inadvertently left my clear specs back in Ruakaka. I will have to tackle the darkness wearing my prescription sunglasses, which is not at all ideal.But when it’s time to go I tuck in behind the bright rear lights of a slow moving truck, stay in second and third gears, and hope for the best. If I slightly hold-up the progress of the traffic behind me … well – ‘tough’.. innit!
But nervously we get through the tunnel without incident and straightaway start the windy switch-backing descent down towards the Sound. Yunno, I really have mastered these downhill U-turn bends: Approach wide; gently brake to the correct pre-calculated speed; shift down into second gear; lean and glide around the corner without further brake application; softly counter-steer about the apex (a technique John J has clarified to me); three-quarters of the way around start unwinding the turn and let the bike simply stand-up again under its own natural centrifugal momentum – and at the same time shift back-up into third gear. Sashay on downwards accelerating, smoothly but positively, to the next switchback turn, which inevitably will be bending in the opposite direction ... and start all over again.
There’s no better feeling than synchronizing the whole manoeuvre jeeyust absolutely ‘dead right’ – Perfectly ‘magical’ riding!
Finally, we make it to Milford Sound ‘proper’. I look up at the famous Mitre Peak towards the south (left), and the snow-clad mountainside on the north (right) cliffs – I think to myself, ‘But I know I can see similar sights in the European Alps?’ Then I remember? We’re not 1,000 miles inland and 6,000 feet up in the Alpine dry air. These are not mountain pine forests – these are temperate rain forests. This is not a freshwater lake; this is the ocean - and we’re at sea level.
Then you suddenly realises that you are in a very special place indeed. You’re in a Haven – called Milford Sound. 
And we caught it all on a gloriously perfect mid-summer’s day :o)------------------------------------
After a bite to eat, we return again to the bottom quadrant of the globe, and head-on back to Te Anau Township and arrive there by 4:00pm. After another refuelling stop and a delicious ice cream, we decide that, as it’s such a lovely day to be riding a motorcycle – then, “Why not just keep on going?”
So we carry on heading south down to Lake Manapouri before connecting back to SH99: the Southern Scenic Route, which offered a super mix of fast straights with very light traffic. In fact after 80 km (50 miles) I don’t think we encountered more than a dozen other vehicles.
By 6:00 pm we passing through a potential stopover township called Tuatapere – but keep on heading south towards Invercargill, the southernmost city in New Zealand. After another 50 km (31 miles) and 30 minutes later, we deliberately pull-up into the quiet estuary township of Riverton, which is situated some 30 km (19 miles) west and short of Invercargill. This will do for us for the night – just perfect.
Another much better value-for-money motel and huge helpings of cooked-to-order fish ‘n chips later, we realise that yet again we’ve covered a further 400+ km (250 + miles) in a single day’s ride. Not a huge accomplishment on a sports-touring monster like a ST1300 Pan-European, but on this non-protective, almost fairing-less little 55 hp ‘go anywhere’ dual-purpose machine – we’re more than happy with our progress.
It’s been yet another great day
