Summarizing The Whole Round Trip

BACK HOME .. in Cornwall, England.

Now then .. instead of rambling on and bleedin' on, I'm now gonna draw a line under this first section (Part One) of my blog – it is definitely time to do so.

It is fair to say that the episode has been quite an adventure. I have learned lessons and experienced nearly every human emotion imaginable along the way. But IMHO, and after a lot of reflection, the greatest and the one that has left a lasting impression is the kindness shown by people who were beforehand - that is to say until this adventure began - complete strangers to me.

There is no need to mention their names, these kind folk know who they are. I need say no more - other than, I shall never forget you.

As I have unfinished business to complete 'Down Under' it is entirely conceivable that I shall see most - if not all - of you again very soon, which can be taken to mean within the next 12-24 months. I hope it comes to pass.

Meanwhile, my testimony to this 'trip of a lifetime' is in the form of a short 10-minute pictorial video, which is embedded above. DVD copies are - or will be very shortly - in the mail to those who appear in the ending credits.

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And my final comment: "There's a hellofa lot a sheep in New Zealand" ... ;o)

I Guess I'm the Lucky One

And I AM indeed the lucky one, as I learned at Stephen & Lisa's place, from news reports, and first-hand witness testimony, that just 12 days after my crash a US brother-rider - same age as me (52) - fell whilst riding a rented tourer (prolly something like a BMW R1150RT, or similar) in exactly the same vicinity as where I tumbled.

The source of the witness testimony? Well, bizarrely, another couple, Canadians Sven & Amelie (Sven being Lisa's cousin), with whom I also got real friendly - because they were also temporarily stopping over in the Counsell Household here in Queenstown the same time as me - witnessed this second fatal accident in the rear-view mirror of their rented campervan. They were shocked with the experience, needless to say.

Sadly, Brother Patrick M Stoffey (RIP) went back home from NZ to his loved ones, in California, covered in a body bag.

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But right now (early afternoon on Sunday, April 8th - 1:30pm) I must stop tapping the keys of my ultralight laptop's keyboard, as I have a plane to catch in just a few hours' time.

I'm off to San Francisco in the northern hemisphere, and the early Springtime sunshine, for 2½ day / 2 nights' stopover ... and so it is .. the Endless Summer adventure continues.

I get back to Blighty-based Heathrow Int'nl Airport next Wednesday morning. It'll be good to cross over the Tamar River that evening and be back in Cornwall.

I shall elaborate further on the fantastic events that took place between Sat-Mar-17 - the day my plans changed - up to the present, and beyond, next week, from the comfort of my Cornish living room .. :o)

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Kind Hearts and New Friends

Saturday, March 17 ... contd/

... and so after waiting a 'wee' while (South Island 'speak' .. :-) from the time I made my '111' emergency service cell-phone call after the crash - actually, it was around an hour's wait - I am on my way back to the township of Te Anau, courtesy of NZ's St John Ambulance Service .. Gawd Bless'um, and with one of the Brigade's kindest officers of all .. the fair Mary. I was is in safe hands now .. or was I?
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After three or more X-rays back at Fiordland Medical Practice, Te Anau, Dr David Hamilton diagnosis was as follows:

Closed fractured left distal radius/ulna-lower end, or wrist (Severity 2)
Closed fractured rib (Severity 1)
Fractured clavicle, or collar bone (Severity 1)

Doc Hamilton reckoned on surgery to fix the smashed-up wrist and referred us all onto an orthopaedic surgeon in Southland Hospital, Invercargill - a good two-hour's drive away to the south. With my veins pumped full of morphine (wow! .. dude! :o) we were soon on our way.

So it's back south for the pair of us .. me now - the recovered bike will follow, no doubt, a day or two later .. to Invercargill, the most southerly city in New Zealand.

And so started a whole new series of friendships, which all developed from the time I was admitted into Southland Hospital's surgical ward for a 4½-day stopover, right up to the time I left New Zealand, just over three weeks later.

Here's Dennis the Maori, who occupied the bed right opposite me within our four-man ward. He had a leg amputated. Can you guess which one it was?!

BTW, if you wanna know the definitive diagnosis of my injuries, then here they are:

1. Closed undisplaced oblique fracture of base of left fifth metacarpal
2. Left side midshaft clavicle fracture
3. Left ulnar side styloid fracture
4. Closed left dominant side intra-articular distal radius fracture
5. Fracture of left 3rd rib anteriorly
6. Plus, of course, a lot of other body bruising ...
.. including my ego!

On Day 3 I had a 2-hour full-anaesthesia operation in order to rebuild and plate & pin my LH wrist.

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Thursday, March-22

After the fourth near sleepless night in hospital, I grew desperate for a decent night's kip. So, the day after the operation I asked to be discharged, a request which was granted. I then booked into a homely B&B located on the edge-of-town (Invercargill).

My magnificent hosts were Russell .. and ...

.. his wife - the very pragmatic (and funny .. :-) Maid Marion of Southland Forest.

I spent two wonderful 'home-from-home' nights with these fine Southland folk .. and their son, Glynn.

On my second day with the Miller family, Marion offered, and I gratefully accepted, her kind invitation to see the local sights around the city of Invercargill. Here's one of the family cars, with the Maid Marion sat behind the steering wheel. Can you guess where this might be? ..

Well, I'm not certain either - but I seem to recall Marion mentioning the name 'Oreti Beach' (?)

But at least I get to see some more of Invercargill and its wild coastline and beach .. :-)

On the way back to the Miller-family B&B, we dropped in at Southland Honda Motorcycle Shop to survey the Trannie's damage, as I had learned that it had been trucked down a couple of days ago.

And it don't look good!

Not a pretty sight at all .. I reckon that it'll take more than a washdown and a rub of T-Cut to fix this lot! .. :-(

Executive Conclusion: I think the tour on two wheels might need to be completed during some other future space in time!

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The day after - Fri-23-March - Russell offers to drive me to Queenstown, a good 2½-3 hours' drive towards the north.

On the way we stop to take some pictures alongside the southern banks of Lake Wakapitu. I try to hide the splint/cast over my left fore arm, hoping to keep-up the masquerade that my injuries are merely superficial - for the benefit of the folks back home.



Will I get away with it, I'm wondering at the time?

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.. but never mind all the wishful masquerading, as for now - early/mid afternoon of Friday 23 March - just less than six days after the crash - I am being literally delivered from and out of the safe hands and kind hearts of Invercargill-based Russell & Marion Miller, into the equally altruistic care of Queenstown-based Stephen and Lisa Counsell.

I stayed with Stephen & Lisa for more than a week all told. Almost complete strangers at the beginning .. but nevertheless over the course of those few following days this young couple took care of my every need .. right down to tying my shoe laces. I realy don't know what would have happened had I not met-up with Stephen, by pure chance, less than a month beforehand. I just got lucky, I guess.

I am convinced that Stephen & Lisa have a lot of Good Karma coming there way. I shall say no more except that their kindness and generosity changed my whole outlook on life .. for the better I might add.

Thanks again Stephen and Lisa. Nice one .. ;o) :o)

Saturday, March 17th

I’m away from Manapouri by 10:00am, there’s no rush today. The plan is to simply get myself eastwards across to Queenstown, which nestles in a northeast corner of Lake Wakatipu. It’s a young-at-heart vibrant town - the “Adventure Capital” – and is one of the world’s leading mountain resort holiday destinations. I have arranged to stayover for just one night with a new acquaintance, Stephen, who I met by pure chance whilst riding down the northeast coastal section of SH1 from Blenheim to Kaikaura during the late afternoon of Wednesday, 28th February.

But as I have plenty of time on my hands I start the day’s ride by a short 20 km (13½ mile) diversion northwards to Te Anau Township in order fill up the tank with some cheaper premium gas, update my blog, Skype the reles back home, and grab some brunch.

Stephen + Lisa (missus) won’t be back in their Queenstown home until around 5:00pm in any case, so as I say, there is plenty of time to make the 180 km (112 mile) journey, which should take no longer than 2½ hours .. max.

Chores done-and-dusted, and I’m away from Te Anau by around 1:00pm.

After travelling around 30 km (18½ miles) eastwards along State Highway 94 I pass a road sign indicating a gravel track to ‘Mavora Lakes - 38 km’ just to the north. Should I go? Or should I continue along SH94? ‘Buggerit, les go’ I think to myself ‘wos a bidda harmless gravel? - I’ve done enough of it not to be worried’ and ‘I got plenny a time on my hands’

So I turn the Trannie around and embark upon this benign [?] riding surface towards South Mavora Lake

Around 45 minutes later I arrive there ...

.. and make my way across to the southern lakeside shore ...

.. observing and taking-in protocol and the local by-rules in the process

The lake and surrounding mountains remind me sooooo much of the rugged and beautifully breathtaking Scottish Highlands

So I decide to go deeper into the wooded lakeside, where I leave the gravel, and take whatever comes my way

Try negotiating this stuff on a fully laden 700 lb (318 kg) ST1300 Pan-European ... ?!

I don't think so .. Mr Jones!

But after a while I'm back to the shoreline. Fantastic wilderness - Surreal .. dreamlike

Now just how am I gonna turn the bike around? .. :-(

But after a scramble, I do turn around and start heading south towards 'civilisation' [?]. There's hardly a soul around; just me, the V-twin, and some pesky sand flies

30 km (18½ miles) later I'm skipping over the corrugated gravel at speeds of 50, 60 & 70 km/h (31, 37 & 43½ mph). Boyoboy .. have I got this gravel-stuff licked .. or wot John?

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Soon I see the tar-sealed surface come into view 'that's early ..? I think to myself. Just a 100m away from the smooth surface I'm still picking my line and starting to accelerate towards the black stuff. Then, suddenly .. I'm staring a small potential disaster straight in the face!

I hit a washed-out, recently re-graded, stretch of new gravel that catches and retains my line in a deep [and growing deeper .. yikes!] tyre track which is gullying me into the RH roadside ditch that's full of large stones and small boulders. I can't seem to steer out of this deepening tyre-created gully. So I have four choices:

1. Get over the LH edge 'hump' of gravel. No, that's not for me, I'm no scrambler
2. Brake real hard. No again, I decide. On this loose surface the non-ABS assisted braking system will instantly lock-up the wheels. No straight line stoppage with this option, I'll be all over the place - and down within a second
3. Attempt a 'controlled drop'? .. I don't think so, that's just another name for a 'crash' in my book!
4. Shut down the throttle? or do I retain my speed and traction? Take my chances with wherever this gully takes me. A split-second decision is required

I choose a wishy-washy half-hearted number 4.

I'm just 40-50m away from safety - we then hit a large stone - basketball size. As a result ...

.. the Trannie and I go down.

Bugger! So near and yet still so far.

For Your Eyes Only ... Followed by a Doubtful Mood

Friday, March 16th

I awoke this Friday in Manapouri to a mixed bag of weather. This is my first view of the morning at 07:49am, looking northwest .. AWAY from the rising sun. Pretty - but weird, huh?

So it's onto the bus to take the short ride west to Pearl Harbour wherein I ...

.. and my fellow passengers, embark aboard the first of today's two small cruising vessels; the initial one takes us across Lake Manapouri where we all disembark at West Arm.

We then travel underground by coach to see the Manpouri Power Station machine hall. It looks like something out of a James Bond movie, doesn't it?

A tunnel network leading to a huge hall all of which have been hewn out of solid rock ...

.. with seven giant power generating machines humming away beneath the stone floor

Then it's over Wilmot Pass, again by coach, stopping along the way to experience some of Fiordland's most dense rainforest, where at Deep Cove we take passage on the second of today's vessels to cruise around Doubtful Sound for three-hour; taking in some dramatic scenery.

Our skipper provide a detailed commentary and point out highlights

At first view, looking at these pictures, it might appear disappointingly overcast. That it was, with rain and drizzle perhaps spoiling the day.

But not so - as whatever mood Doubtful Sound is in brings a new and different dimension for the visitor. It was a day full of shadows and mystery. The rain brought with it some spectacular waterfalls which otherwise, on a fine day, would not have been present









I'm glad I went to wet and moody Doubtful Sound on this particular Friday .. :o)

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Lake Manapouri stats:-

Area: 142 sq km - fifth largest lake in New Zealand
33 islands
Shoreline length: 170 km
Catchment: 1,388 sq km
Maximum depth: 444m - second deepest lake in New Zealand (Deepest is Lake Hauroko with max depth of 462m)
Natural mean height above sea level: 177.8m
Deepest part below sea level: 266m
Average annual rainfall at West Arm: 3280mm

No Place Like Home

Thursday, March 15th

Yesterday, Wed-14, John and I did manage an invigorating 300km (188 mile) afternoon's ride-out on the bikes in a broad easterly direction, with the turnaround point being the coastal city / large town of Oamaru. The weather conditions were cold, but with plenty of layers of cover-up clothing it was an enjoyable run that ended with a skirting of Lake Aviemore, which returned us to Otematata by around 6:45pm. I was, of course, following John's tail-light, as he knows these roads intimately. But I can indeed say that 'I kept up with the Joneses' .. no problem .. ;o)

But it is time to leave my good mates John and Pip, who have both been nothing less than magnificent with their altruistic support and companionship throughout my endeavours to tour New Zealand on two wheels. Friends like these are rare in a lifetime.

I do hope John can 'figuratively' join me during my furthet travel adventures, albeit from thousands of miles away; and especially throughout the course of my Merrycan trip this [northern hemisphere] summer. Should be okay, as distance has hitherto never proved a barrier between us, even going way back as far as last September '06, when we first started communicating.

One more time: Thanks again, to John & Pip .. ;o) :o)

So by 10:30am I leave Otematata and immediately turn west onto SH83 where I head back towards the mountains and the nearby Alpine Lewis Pass, which will lead me to today's ultimate destination of Fiordland in the far southwest region of South Island.

The mountains still carry the remnants of the last couple of day's bad weather on their caps; the oncoming views are indeed a spectacle to behold





After negotiating the Lewis Pass, I fill-up with a drop of the good stuff - BP's unleaded 98 octane - at Cromwell Township, before running down Kawarau Gorge ...

.. and up the other side; after which a vicious wind picks-up that gives me more than little to think about as the Trannie and I are blasted around the road.

Despite the battle against the wind, and after a bite to eat and a couple of phone calls later in Frankton, Nr Queenstown, I finish my day's journey at around 5:00pm in the little lakeside town of Manapouri. And find all I need ...

.. including cover from the elements for my little steed; all-in at just NZD $40 (£14.38) per night. So I shall stay here in Manapouri for the next two nights that will include the whole of tomorrow, Friday, 16th.

Then the wind picks-up to a strong to severe gale force hoolie. I want the warm sunshine back please! And I'm left wondering - what weather conditions tomorrow will bring? as I drift off to sleep.

My progress during the second tour around South Island, thus far