Tuesday, Jan 2nd 2007

With Ellen’s time-zone / jet-lag recovery seemingly out of the way – lucky her, not so for me a month ago, my sleeping pattern took a whole week to adjust – the first BIG tour of New Zealand started today, Tuesday the 2nd January.

We leave Ruakaka at around 11:00am and head 150 km (94 miles) south down the now totally familiar SH1 (State Highway 1) to Auckland; the intention being to pop into motorbike stockists called ‘Motomail’ in the Ponsonby District – where I acquired most of the TransAlp’s accessories a while back – to buy at least two, or maybe ideally four, webbing straps, which I shall need in order to lash and secure the bike to the ferry’s deck when we cross the Cook Straight to South Island next Monday, the 8th January.

Unfortunately most of Auckland was ‘closed’, including Motormail; all still hung-over from the Christmas & New Year festivities, I guess. Auckland was like a ghost town – a most unfamiliar sight, to me at least.

So we head on down to the even more familiar district of Howick where we call into the Village Centre and get a late lunch of ‘Lambs Fries’ (fried lamb’s liver) with mashed potatoes (some say potatoes … :o) and rich onion gravy at the Irish bar called The Barrel Inn. The route through Howick is by no means driven by my sentimentality, as we want to get to Whitianga on the eastern seaboard of the Coromandel Peninsular by nightfall. We feel that the 130 km (81 mile) eastern coastal route around the west-south-eastern coasts of the Firth of Thames would be much more interesting than continuing down SH1, then onwards to SH2, and eventually SH25 & SH25A (the Coromandel ‘Loop’).

This alternative ride, more scenic route, was indeed pleasant enough but the threat of being caught out by a shower or two was ever present.

By late afternoon we’re heading eastwards across SH25A, the southern line of the ‘Loop’ towards Whitianga Township, which nestles cosily within Mercury Bay. When we reach the Pacific Coast, at Tairua Township, Ellen calls our pre-booked B&B called the ‘WhitiTown’ to confirm our two night’s reservation. I then contact a friend called Geoff James on his cell-mobile phone who has a ‘Batch’ (second home) in Coromandel Township, which is situated on the other (western) side of the Peninsular. I met Geoff on-line through a NZ-based bikers’ forum back in September/October and we just seemed to hit it off, in cyberspace, straightaway.

Geoff confirms that both he and his wife, Jenny, will be staying at their batch until Sun-07-Jan, and ‘Yes’ they would be delighted to meet us in person. He kindly offers to ride across and down the Peninsular to meet us in Whitianga at 10:30am the following morning and escort us back to their batch in plenty of time for late morning refreshments, followed by an Al Fresco lunch.

By early evening we’re checking into our more-than-adequate little B&B located right on the edge of the local golf course and about 3 km from the centre of Whitianga.

Wednesday, January 3rd

Whitianga has a special significance for Ellen and I, as it was here that we forged an enchanting friendship with our last year’s hosts, who successfully manage their motel lodge called the ‘Beach Motel & Cabins’, which is on the other side of town from the Golf Course. Unfortunately we didn’t manage to book in time to reserve a lodge cabin or ‘unit’ at the BM&C. But never mind all that, we really wanted to meet-up with Pam and Alan again, so before rendezvousing with Geoff, we make a surprise visit to the their motel and fortunately for us both were there, working as hard as ever maintaining and servicing their small clutch of ‘units’.

Without hesitation Pam and Alan instantly dropped everything they were doing; took time out of their very busy morning’s work schedule; and made us a welcome cup of tea (for Ellen) and coffee (for me). Then they insisted that we return later that evening when we could expect another barbeque, which is not an offer neither of us could refuse, especially after tasting Alan’s BBQ skills for the first time early last year. AND no need to worry about drinking-and-riding, as Pam would do the honours and collect us at 7:00pm and return us to our B&B ‘whenever’.

All to soon we were kitting-up our gear and riding the short distance back into the town centre area where Geoff was waiting for us at the agreed meeting place of the Whitianga’s local river ferry’s landing point.

The ride across to Coromandel following Geoff’s tail lights was interesting, to say the least, as he rides a very powerful 164 hp Honda sports-tourer, with the emphasis on the ‘sports’ aspect, called a CBR 1100 XX Super ‘Blackbird’. A mean fat rear-tyred muther of a machine capable of breathtaking acceleration and a very high top-end speed. We had a hard job keeping up with the Blackbird, as our little 55 hp dual-purpose all rounder struggled in Geoff’s wake, especially as we were, of course, riding two-up. Nevertheless, power disparity notwithstanding; the Trannie did not disgrace us. One thing I soon learned though is that Geoff is one hell of a good rider, taking-in the countless twisty curves that we needed negotiated in absolute text book fashion. His 40 years of experience would be instantly apparent and quite obvious to anyone who knew anything at all about riding on two wheels.



Here’s the breathtaking view just before we descend down the hillside into Coromandel Township











After around a full hour’s ride in total from Whitianga we pull up a steep driveway to Geoff & Jenny’s batch, where we receive a guided tour of the immediate surrounding vicinity; especially their very well thought-through and maintained garden where grows a variety of their favourite herbs and fruits, including at least one absolutely luscious peach tree which right then was heavily laden with perfectly ripe fruit.

After 3-4 of cold drinks, absorbing conversation, including a splendid lunch of cold meats, cheeses and fresh salads, followed by fresh peaches literally just picked from the branch, we say our goodbyes and make our way back to Whitianga along the convoluted hills with their twists and turns providing us yet again with a challenging variety of corner carving. An absolute motorcyclist’s delight. Before we hit the curves I notice that the ambient temperature is that hot that it’s melting the tar-sealed road resulting in some potentially hazardous slippery surface conditions.

Another lesson: mental note made: ‘not to put foot down on melting tar when stopping – as this can cause pebble-dash effect on boot soles with dusty chippings’

“Ah yes … I didn't get where I am today without knowing that God moves in mysterious ways when it comes to tar-sealed roads on hot summer days.” eh Reggie? … :o)

Sharp at 7.00 pm Pam pulls into our B&B’s driveway and shuttles us off back to the BM&C, where Alan is yet again busy at his barbeque griddle. For me it was as though time had almost stood still for the last 12 months, as this was the exact same view I had just under a year ago. Apart from a quick change of clothes, it’s as though Alan has been nailed to the same spot for almost the 12-month period ...

... see what I mean?! .. :o)

Far too much food was being prepared and cooked to perfection by our generous hosts. There was enough fare available for at least twice as many as the six of us dining that evening under the full moon, including freshly smoked (that afternoon) snapper fish, huge marinated and tender beefsteaks and pork chops and whopping great burgers – all the size of doorsteps they were; boy did I struggle but I did manage to chomp down three whole rounds before I was finally beaten. There wasn’t even enough room for a glass of beer afterwards, just a small cuppa coffee under the bright moonlight.

MY WORD! What exceptional hospitality we have received throughout today. It really doesn’t get any better, surely?!

Thursday, January 4th

We’re up in reasonable time, packed-up & stowed away and back in the saddle again by 10:00 am, and heading south and eastwards down and around the Bay of Plenty in quite purrr..feckt riding conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, or the slightest hint of anything other than a lazy cool breeze, with the ambient temperature ranging from not less than 20ºC – and not more than 25ºC (68ºF – 77ºF).

After around an hour and a half we stop for fuel and a mid-morning break of tea & coffee and a cinnamon muffin at the small ‘sleepy feel’ and laid-back coastal township of Whangamata, which although renowned for its surfing, also features a sheltered estuary providing opportunities for boating, fishing and diving.

Fully refortified we press on down the coast continuing in a south-easterly direction until SH25 meets the much busier SH2 trunk road towards the ‘café culture’ coastal town of Tauranga. Everything seems strangely familiar to me as we pass the BP filling station at the junction to our left and the following direction sign to Waihi Beach …. now thinking ‘déjà vu’ … OF COURSE! .. Ellen and I rode through here on our rented BMW R1150RT two-wheeled tourer on Friday 13 January last year. It was another good day for travelling then too, as I re-call, despite the onerous date!



After a couple of ‘natural breaks’ on SH2, including a brief stop under this Norfolk Pine tree at Kohioawa Beach, we finally arrive at our intended stopover destination of Ohope; a very sleepy seaside town where the amenities haven’t yet caught-up with the recent residential homes and tourism developments.

Ohope nevertheless provided us, by chance, with a superb and completely self-contained apartment from our newest and latests hosts Sue and Kenny, all for just NZD $80 (GBP £29). The nearby deserted Ohope Beach lay just across the road and down a 40 metre cut-through and reminded me, perhaps because its geographical features, of Benidorm’s beach on the Costa Blanca in southern Spain. (Okay, okay! I’ll admit it, I once spent a day and a night in Benidorm … just for the Bleedin’ Watneys Red Barrel, of course!! .. :o) – BUT, as you can see very much minus the over-exposed and under-sunblocked beaching populace.

After a swim in the 20ºC Pacific we grab a beer or two and a couple of fine helpings of deep fried battered Dory & Chips liberally laced with salt ‘n vinegar, and of course, the mandatory ketchup topping. Then we enjoyed a balmy stroll back to our little apartment along the shoreline at dusk.

It’s been another excellent day.